Igreja do Carmo Church

The Convento da Ordem do Carmo (Carmo Convent) and, more prominently, the Igreja do Carmo (Carmo Church) are two permanent reminders of the horrors that faced Lisbon during the devastation Earthquake of 1755. This once important medieval covent, which originated in 1390, was stripped down to a bare skeleton frame by the power of the earthquake and the remaining ruins now tower high above central Lisbon. Inside the reinforced husk of the Igreja do Carmo is the small Museu Arqueológico do Carmo (Carmo Archaeological Museum) which houses artifacts from ancient Portuguese history.

The Igreja do Carmo lies between the Chiado and the Baixa districts of Lisbon, on a hill ridge opposite the Castle of Saint George. The pleasant quiet square in front of the church, called Carmo Square, can be easily reached by traveling up on the Elevador Santa Justa that connects Baixa with Chiado. The best views of the ruined church are either from Rossio Square or from the viewing platform of the Elavador santa Justa. The main gothic entrance to the Igreja do Carmo is located in Carmo square but the skeleton frame of the arched roof is hidden from sight.

 

The Igreja do Carmo was constructed in an era when classical church design was heavy influence by the gothic style of architecture. This design incorporated massive vaulted ceilings and arched windows stretching the full height of the outer walls. There was a tendency for grandeur and size but not for intricate stone carving or detailed masonry.

Portuguese literature written prior to 1755 details that the church and associated convent were impressive in both design and decoration when compared to the other old medieval churches of Lisbon. The classically designed Igreja do Carmo was constructed around a latin cross floor plan with the alter facing out to the castle. The historic documentation also stated that the church had an intricate rose window, similar to that of the Se Cathedral, built in the west wall facing out over the Carmo square .

History of the Igreja do Carmo

The Convento da Ordem do Carmo was founded as a convent for the Carmelite Order in 1389 by the Portuguese knight Nuno Álvares Pereira. He won favour with the king of Portugal, King John I, after leading a deceive victory against the Castilian army in the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. This victory helped ensure Portugal's independence from Spain and provided the pious Nuno with the fiance to found the Convento da Ordem do Carmo. The Igreja do Carmo was constructed during the same period. In 1404 Nuno donated his entire wealth to the convent and became a full brother in 1423.

On the 1st November 1755, Lisbon was ravaged by a massive earthquake. The 1st of November is the feast day of "All Saints" and the Igreja do Carmo was packed with worshippers celebrating the festival. The 8.9 earthquake rocked the church causing the huge roof collapsed crushing hundreds of worshippers. The arches which once supported the massive roof still remain clearly visible from Rossio. The church survived the tsunami which flooded the Baixa district but the candles light for the celebrations toppled and burned.

 

The entire convent library was destroyed with the loss of approximately 5000 historically important books. There are no reliable estimates for the number of people who died due to the collapsed roof or from the fires that started within but it is reliable accepted that in Lisbon alone over 75,000 people perished. The Marquis of Pombal was the driving force behind the restoration of the city but the Igreja do Carmo was never fully rebuilt as he wanted the building to remain as a permanent monument to the destruction Lisbon experienced.

 

The skeleton shell of the Igreja do Carmo was converted to a wood store but in 1864 was donated to Association of Portuguese Archaeologists Igreja do Carmo. The association reinforced the damaged walls and transformed the church into the museum which exist to the present day.

 

The Carmo Convent was rebuilt by the military and the complex became a central city base for the army. During the liberation from the of the communist Salazar government the Carmo Convent was the last stronghold of the President and the military loyal to him. The old Carmo Convent has retained its military presence and is now one of the central buildings for the Municipal Guard (Guarda Republicana).