Igreja São Domingos Church

The Saint Domingos Church (Igreja São Domingos) is the most macabre religious building of Lisbon, the dimly light interior is painted a haunting orange with ruined sections of old reincarnations of the church jutting out from the walls.

Gruesome depictions of Jesus’ death and decaying body fill the small alcoves, the massive stone pillars are fire scorched and there is a lingering smell of burning. No other church in Lisbon has this chilling yet morose atmosphere, Igreja Sao Domingos is a truly unique sight of Lisbon.

No other church of Lisbon was pitted against so many natural disasters; the earth quake of 1531 and 1755 (which destroyed most of Baixa) and a major fire in 1959. Sections of the original Igreja São Domingos church which survived the two earthquakes are combined with later reconstructions, the ancient church arches and walls seem completely out of place against the smooth orange plastered walls.

This strange combination of ancient and more modern architecture adds to the over sinister atmosphere of the church, as if the orange walls are hiding some dark ruined secrete. The sombre atmosphere is in the Igreja São Domingos stark contrast to the congregation who fill the Igreja São Domingos on Sundays and feast days which are predominantly African ex-colonialists who wear powerful coloured clothes and have a constant cheery disposition.

The small square in front of the Igreja Sao Domingos, the Largo de Sao Domingos, is a popular meeting area for the Portuguese African population who like to lounge under the shade of the trees or site out on the stone benches. The Igreja São Domingos has always had a strong African connection as traditionally, the priest originated from African and was able to support new immigrants during their transition into Portuguese life style.

The third devastation to hit the Igreja São Domingos occurred in 1959 when fire completely gutted the interior of the church. Much of the ornate artefacts were destroyed which included the gilded altars, valuable pictures and paintings. Traces of the fire can be still seen on the pillars which have scotch marks and the smell of burnt wood still lingers within the musty air.